When the Sun Finally Drops

7:18 AM

I’m up again at 6. A quick shower, then walking to the bakery for breakfast. Two eggs with hash browns, once more. I call home for a bit — this will probably be one of the last places with cell service. See you in six days.

10:59 AM

At 9:00 I arrange an Uber to Ross Lake Dam. An hour and a half later I’m standing at the start of the trail. I still don’t know which route is the smartest choice; there’s very little clarity about trail conditions. It’s downhill and so far things are fine. I take it slow — no need to force anything on day one.

11:16 AM

I walk toward Ross Lake Resort to ask which trail would be easiest. It’s warm, the paths are narrow. Thousands of blueberries grow along the trail. The forest smells sweet. It feels good to be outside again.

11:47 AM

At the resort office I ask about a good approach route and whether camping is allowed. Camping isn’t permitted, and they don’t know anything about the trails. Sigh. I decide to take the water taxi straight across the lake, where there are campsites.

Fifteen minutes later my name is called. Off we go.

4.7 km in 1 hour 25 minutes
85 m up, 220 m down

12:22 PM

The boat bounces across the lake at full speed. It’s a 30-kilometer crossing, so it takes a while.

12:40 PM

Suddenly I’m standing on shore at Devils Junction. I still don’t know which approach route makes the most sense. It’s 12:45 — I could walk another 7 km to Lightning Creek. That would leave only one possible approach route, which actually makes the decision easier. No alternatives left.

3:21 PM

Along the way I meet Kalieb. He just moved to Seattle and is originally from Chicago. It’s his first backpacking trip and he wants to walk together. I prefer hiking alone, but that’s not something you say out loud, so I let him join.

Seven kilometers is quite a distance if you haven’t walked in a year.

We arrive at the campsite and there’s already another tent. Its owner talks nonstop, so I quickly withdraw a bit.

It’s a beautiful spot. The three of us camp here. There’s a bear locker for food and even a pit toilet that’s cleaner than the ones in Sweden.

Thousands of black flies swarm the area. They don’t bite, but they itch — I end up wearing a head net pretty quickly.

6.35 km in 1 hour 52 minutes
130 m up, 117 m down

4:41 PM

I explore the surroundings a bit. This is a beautiful place to camp.

5:08 PM

Dinner time. I’m not exactly sure what it is, but it involves quinoa 🥺 — and that pretty much says it all.

8:06 PM

It’s so unbearably hot that I have to wait inside the tent until sunset. Outside, thousands of flies attack you, so it’s a choice between itching from flies or sweating inside the tent. As soon as the sun disappears behind the mountain, I dive into the lake to cool off.