Walking the Edge

6:59 AM

Once again, it takes effort to get out of bed. The wind is cold and keeps me from standing up. I get going slowly; there’s a tough pass ahead right away, and pushing myself over it takes more effort than expected.

I shuffle upward and notice my calves starting to cramp. Some stretching seems necessary, but while climbing, it doesn’t really loosen up.

7:34 AM

The climb feels endless; it seems like it will never end.

When I finally reach the top, I cross a pass that’s only a few centimeters wide. And just when you think you’ve made it, the trail continues climbing on the other side of the mountain.

7:58 AM

You look out over a massive valley and see the PCT running high along the mountainside on the opposite side. So it’s a full traverse along the wall, with a few serious passes to cross along the way.

The views are incredible, but I can’t walk and look at the same time. A fall would be more than 300 meters, and that’s a risk I’m not willing to take.

8:52 AM

Suddenly I have 5G and try calling everyone, but without success. I guess the internet is still too slow to get a decent connection back home. Maybe it’ll improve if I go over another ridge 🤔.

9:30 AM

I meet an older man and he casually gives me a pack of cookies. “Happy trails!” he calls after me 🙏.

9:54 AM

Just one more stretch at elevation around the lake, and after that it should be downhill all the way.

10:57 AM

I arrive at the last lake and suddenly it’s busy with weekend crowds. Running athletes, backpackers, lots of Indians wearing slippers—what is this? 🤔

Two German girls are heading north and started in the snow in Oregon. Now Oregon is on fire; hopefully it will be under control by the time I get there.

I quickly filter another liter of water, because now it’s downhill, heading for Snoqualmie Pass, a small town where there should also be a hotel.

11:53 AM

I’m starting to reach the end of my tether. The downhill seems endless. Hundreds of day hikers are coming the other way and all want right of way. Some are kind and make room, while others don’t understand why you can’t step aside faster. How are you supposed to do that with a ravine next to you? 🤔

12:09 PM

Pfff, time to lie down for a bit. It’s only 5 km left, but with all the roots and rocks you still have to pay attention. I’m sliding all the way forward in my shoes and get the feeling my toenails are going to turn pretty blue. Fingers crossed.

4:55 PM

Down in the valley, with the noise of the highway, I head straight to the hotel. I’m snapped at rudely that I should have made a reservation and that there’s no room. It’s the weekend, and all of Seattle is here to enjoy nature. So even at the hotel I’m dealing with all these day visitors who think they have priority everywhere.

I ask for a room for tomorrow, but I’m told to come back tomorrow. 🤔 Huh, I’m supposed to make a reservation, right? No, tomorrow there will be plenty of rooms available! I only need one! She won’t help me any further. Fine.

I go into the restaurant and order two meals to regain some strength.

While eating, I book a room for two nights; I’ll get that room tomorrow. For tonight, I manage to reserve a hostel.

At the hostel everything is taken care of; dinner is even included. I can do my laundry and talk with other hikers.

6:38 PM

It’s cozy; there are twelve of us, but I prefer to stay in the background. All those English conversations go way too fast. I’d rather help out in the kitchen; it makes me feel more at ease. Spaghetti with stuffed tomato sauce and a mixed salad. It feels just like the Spanish Camino.

What I do pick up is that there are a lot of wildfires in Oregon. I’ll need to figure out how to bypass them before I end up right in the middle of it.

Total: 26.8 km in 8:29 hours · 845 m up · 1,328 m down