Shade, Soda and an 83-Year-Old Inspiration

7:42 AM

Slept reasonably well last night. Warm, but not so damp, which makes falling asleep easier. Made a relaxed cup of tea and worked my way through a bagel with peanut butter.

A proper climb to start the day. Everyone says it's good for getting the legs back into shape. Whether that makes it enjoyable, I'm not so sure. It's going to be another seriously hot day.

So we're taking it veeery slowly.

10:18 AM

Pfff, you want to slow down and enjoy things, but it just isn't happening in these temperatures.

There's a campsite down in the valley, so I decide to head there. I meet Paul from the Netherlands, who's travelling around in a camper. Blimey, what luxury.

Still early. Hot, yes, but I might as well take a few steps instead of roasting here in the dry air and sunshine.

12:31 PM

I'm literally dragging myself up the mountain. Every patch of shade gets used. Just ticking off the kilometres, with a bridge in my head where there should be water and maybe shade.

Grit the teeth and try to get another kilometre done.

1:20 PM

Made it to the bridge. What a relief. I'll wait here until about four, when hopefully the wind will pick up a little.

Hey, Running Feather and Salty are under another pillar. I fetch my things and join them. Really good company. I explain that when I'm tired, my English turns into babble. Just assume I'm overheated and trying to cool down.

Feather is 83, so what am I complaining about? Lovely bloke, looks about 65, so both his head and his body are on his side. He lives in San Diego and plans to finish the whole thing too. First the campground, though: there's water there, and trail angels.

Well, if there are trail angels, suddenly I can walk again. Ooooh, I could murder an ice-cold soda 😋

2:55 PM

3:12 PM

Made it to the campground and pitched my little tent on the west side, beside the bushes. Hey, the German couple are here too. They're from Dresden.

I move slowly between patches of shade and try to get some fluids in. The heat is making me a bit nauseous. Force down some hot water and make a hot meal. Gradually, I start feeling human again.

Blimey, if this goes on all month, this trip is going to be pretty tough. Let's keep looking on the bright side. If they can do it, I can surely keep going a bit longer too.

Total: 16.6 km in 8 hours 7 minutes. Ascent: 545 m.

Averages: 2 km/h, heart rate 130, 54 steps/min.

6:00 PM

Running Feather comes to get me. He wants to show me the grinding holes where women made flour under the oak tree 10,000 years ago. Amazing: perfectly round holes, and deep too. They must have spent quite some time grinding away by hand here.

Everyone retreats to their little tents. It gets dark early, so there isn't much else to do. Sleep well, everyone. See you tomorrow. Another big mountain range to cross then. First, some sleep.