Trail Magic and Headwinds

6:19 AM

It’s still raining. You really can’t rely on the weather forecasts anymore. It was supposed to stop raining at 1:00 a.m., but maybe this is some kind of Dutch time difference? Because it’s already 6:00 a.m. and it’s still raining!

The standard ritual can begin again: let the sleeping pad deflate, get dressed—forced into damp clothes—put the kettle on for tea, pack the bag, fetch the bear bag, and have breakfast. A new day, new opportunities, with hopefully better choices ahead.

7:38 AM

I’m running into more and more NOBOs, all of them started in Mexico. Mostly twenty-somethings who move like rockets. They’re carrying Palante packs—the same backpack I left at home because I couldn’t properly judge what to expect here. And they admit it: carrying water with the ultralight V2 backpack in the desert is almost impossible. Still, I miss that pack. With my current backpack, I’ll never be able to walk more than 40 km, because my neck will start hurting too much—unless I throw things out to make it lighter.

9:43 AM

The sun is doing its best to break through the thick layer of fog.

Ouch—a sharp sting in my lower leg. I pull a bee, stinger and all, out of my leg. Why? What did I ever do to you?

11:03 AM

Trail magic 🫨 Tangerines and bottles of water have been left here in a cooler for people doing a thru-hike. Respect and thank you 🙏 to the people who take the effort to encourage others. I lay out my gear to dry and enjoy the tangerine.

12:44 PM

I have to climb 800 meters; that’s going to be another tough ascent. I run into people from the hostel, which is nice, but I’m too tired to socialize, so I keep to myself.

2:46 PM

2:49 PM

At the top I catch up with them again, but the urge to socialize still isn’t there. I’m too tired and my neck hurts badly; every wrong movement leads to cramps. I know I should stop, but it’s still 5 km to a campsite. I just want to be there, set up the tent, and lie in my sleeping bag. Just do absolutely nothing.

4:18 PM

I can already see Mount Rainier. I’ll be walking around this mountain over the next few days. In reality, the mountain rises head and shoulders above all the others. It stands there imposingly, surrounded by a blanket of clouds.

6:35 PM

I made it. Luckily there’s a stream, because my water was almost gone. Time to eat: bread with cheese, some nuts, and then lie down. It’s still 91 km to a motel; sigh, I had really hoped to be there in two days 🥺.

Total: 34.15 km in 10:09 hours
1,504 m up, 1,191 m down