Through Smoke and Detours

8:02 AM

Slept well and awake at 5:30. Time to get up.

I’m approached with the question whether I’ve already heard about the closure. Which closure? The trail is completely closed and I’m in the final 20 km. Within half a kilometer I have to decide how to detour.

I decide to walk to the next campsite, hoping to run into someone there, but no luck. The trail is empty and deserted.

I turn back to an alternative route and there, by chance, I meet someone. They confirm that everything is closed and tell me that a large fire started yesterday, which has already grown to 1,000 hectares.

10:01 AM

Things move fast, and in no time I’ve already covered 15 km. At the trailhead the paths are closed, but I’m out of the forest.

A firefighter is waiting there to point me in the right direction. I have to continue by road and try to hitchhike to the town to figure out what to do next.

10:39 AM

By the roadside I try to hitchhike, but everyone drives past. At the next trailhead more and more hikers are gathering, so hitchhiking is pointless; there are too many people together.

Suddenly three trucks show up to pick up the hikers and take them to town. Perfect, because there I can use the internet to figure out my next move.

11:28 AM

The smoke from the wildfire turns the sky red. In town they’re helpful, but everything is on average 2 km apart, which makes it take a long time to find a place to sleep.

I give up; everything is full or reserved. I dive into a gas station and have lunch there to let go of control. First, eat.

2:11 PM

After stocking up on all necessities and getting ready to head back, I’m told that the road is now completely closed and the fire has grown to 20 hectares.

NOBO hikers will be taken by bus to White Pass tomorrow. SOBO hikers can take an alternative route, but only if someone can take you there. So I’m stuck in a situation where I can’t go anywhere. I wait until 4:00 PM, because a shuttle bus is supposed to go to the trailhead then, even though it’s already closed. I’m hoping the bus can take me to another trailhead. On a gamble.

3:30 PM

I’ve arranged a ride. A Trail Angel coordinated with the fire department and was allowed to go up the mountain one more time. The NOBOs have to climb higher, and I’m discreetly dropped off in case there are other hikers along the road.

The wind is blowing in the other direction, so it’s safe. If the wind turns, I’ll already be on the other side of the next mountain.

3:54 PM

We drive past the fire with three other trucks, but they continue on. I’m the only SOBO hiker and get dropped off at the trailhead.

Two newly arrived NOBO hikers are extremely frustrated; they can go back to town or wait, but the road won’t open anytime soon. It will be quiet on the trail.

6:49 PM

I hike to the first campsite, which lies just in the next valley. If the wind turns, the smoke would first have to cross the first mountain.

I pitch my tent and, by chance, I still have a freeze-dried meal with me: pasta with Bolognese sauce. Luckily, I also still have a block of Parmesan cheese to give it a bit more flavor. A cup of tea with it—what more could you want? Well, 🤔 maybe a normal bed.

Total: 24.17 km in 6 hours and 31 minutes
387 m ascent, 1,139 m descent