Pushing Through

6:40 AM

Saturday the 8th, morning. Slept terribly!! The bed sagged with an old mattress. Lots of turning, trying to find a comfortable sleeping position.

There was horrible snoring—so loud it even cut through my 45 dB earplugs.

In the morning, at 6:30 AM, someone tapped me awake. I was mistaken for someone’s daughter. Yes, I do look that feminine! I was awake anyway, so up we go again.

Oops, I think I’ve completely wrecked all my toenails from walking. If I’m not careful, I’m going to lose them.

8:13 AM

Quickly back on the trail. I did look around for where to pay, but thought—figure it out yourselves. This cabin was €50 and I slept badly. I only pay if I sleep well. Toodle-oo. Membership is expensive enough already and I’ve paid plenty of cabins.

Someone was walking 2 km ahead, which pushes me to keep up. That’s fine—the kilometers fly by.

9:28 AM

After 10 km I finally stopped for breakfast. I prefer to eat when I’m hungry rather than forcing food down.

It’s raining just a little—hopefully it doesn’t continue, because that’s the last thing I feel like dealing with.

10:10 AM

Trees, trees!!!! At 700 m the trees start again.

We discussed in the cabin how the lake crossings work. At the first lake there are three rowboats. There must always be one on each side. If you’re unlucky, you have to row three times because you need to bring a boat back.

At the second lake there’s a bus to the next point. It leaves at 2:50 PM. That leaves me 20 km to catch that bus and cross the first lake. Wow—what a logistical headache.

11:46 AM

The landscape slowly flattens out. I’m in the valley. Then I spot a camera lying on the ground. Hard to just leave it there! I quickly check a few photos so I know who to look for—and sure enough, a few kilometers later I recognize some faces. “Is this yours?” Yes!! Before they could thank me, I was already gone. I’ve got a bus to catch!!

12:37 PM

If you’re in a valley, you also have to climb out again.

1:50 PM

The lake. Oh—I see three boats heading this way. I’ll never make that in time. The trail goes straight down. That’s brutal on your shins.

2:13 PM

Of course—it’s me again. One boat on this side. That means I have to fetch the other two so I can leave one behind. Damn—that’s three crossings. What do I do???? Wait for the next generous soul to volunteer?????

2:47 PM

Half an hour waiting. Never jump too fast—I really don’t want to row three times. And sure enough, a German guy shows up whom I’d also met earlier in the cabin. I’d asked him then how all these lakes worked. He was walking with a Dutch couple. That was the first time I’d heard Dutch in a while—really nice to speak my own language again. The more exhausted I get, the less English I can manage.

Anyway, the guy wanted a rest, so I suggested I’d row and he could sit and relax. He liked that plan. I told the Dutch couple that he’d bring two boats back so the three of them could cross together. Done—plan sorted, and off we go before anyone else shows up with a better idea. I only have to row once.

3:30 PM

4:29 PM

And once you’re on the other side, you have to climb again. From 600 m back up to 1,000 m. Oof—you definitely feel that.

5:28 PM

That was heavier than I expected, but you get something in return. This is an amazing view. I could hang out here for a few hours. Soon I’ll descend again to tree level and then we’ll find a good hammock spot.

As I’m sitting here doing absolutely nothing, those girls suddenly pass me again. Hahaha—so I was ahead all day after all. Or maybe I was just faster organizing the boat.

6:05 PM

Now we’re on the plateau. It’s marshy and rocky. I get into a good rhythm and can chew through kilometers quickly. Going downhill is a bit harder—you can feel your feet are tired. So be careful!

7:20 PM

7:27 PM

The second lake comes into view. I think the 4:00 PM bus didn’t wait for me.

7:39 PM

It’s getting greener. Still 2 km to the bottom though. Weighing my options—push on so I know what tomorrow looks like, or find a spot now. First, a short break.

8:12 PM

A fierce little waterfall—and the trail too. Straight down.

9:41 PM

Saturday the 8th, end of day. Walked 41 km. The distances are manageable, really. If I can keep this up for a few days then… My calves are concrete. I’m going to lose my toenails, and my gut is giving me trouble. Time for a rest period.

That doesn’t leave many options except hanging the hammock next to the waterfall. Quite a noise—but still better than that snoring. It’s raining, and the tapping on the tarp is nice to listen to.