Survival Mode

12:15 PM

At a cabin I got rid of all the ready-made meals. They’re really not my thing. On the trail I live on chocolate, nuts, raisins, Snickers, and chips. If I’m in a village and see a gas station, the biggest burger with fries goes in—and otherwise it’ll be a restaurant.

The path just keeps going; there’s no end to it. By now I’ve crossed back into Norway. The border was marked by a large yellow stone.

The higher I climb, the more snowfields I have to cross.

3:10 PM

Whoa, that’s a dangerous bridge!! Completely wooden, and the handrail is a thin steel cable hanging slack. Crossing only works by using both hands. Everything creaks, grinds, and moves in all directions. Pure luck!!

5:58 PM

The snowfields are getting more intense. It’s quite icy, but I still sink about 20 cm. At some point the VBL liners give up and start leaking too. Cold feet set in.

7:53 PM

This is what I find the worst: crossing rivers up to just above my knees. Deeper than that, and I go higher up—resulting in kilometers of detours. The water is 5 degrees. You think, ah, I’m there—then there’s another river behind it, and another… there were six in total. Aaaah, I’m in a delta and they’re all deep. So I just push through and hope to reach the other side quickly.

The sun is setting—well, setting? I’m walking in the mountain’s shadow, and that’s cold.

8:21 PM

To stay warm I have to keep walking. I’m terribly thirsty and the water just won’t go down. Against my will I eat salty food to retain some water. It’s starting to feel more like survival than a fun hike.

In the distance I see the pass I have to cross. Beyond it I should be able to see the cabin.

9:11 PM

And yes, I can see the cabin. My spirits completely sink because it’s just a tiny dot on the horizon. That’s at least another solid hour of walking.

Halfway there’s a fast-flowing river carved into the snow. The channel is 2 meters deep. Watch out not to fall in. What’s the wisest move—throw the backpack and poles across first, or jump in one go? I chose the latter, making sure to fall forward instead of backward.

10:24 PM

Friday the 30th, end of day. Total: 29 km.

I made it. There’s absolutely nobody here. Luckily I have a key. Pfff, I’m completely wrecked. I’m freezing to the bone. Quickly make the bed and change all clothes into sleepwear. Toodle-oo, until tomorrow.