Crossing the Bridge of the Gods

8:52 AM

I found little tubs of Nutella, so instead of just peanut butter I now also have chocolate spread for my bread. That gives you a huge boost when you almost never eat sugar! 🤣

Two solid climbs lie ahead of me, followed by a 15 km descent to one of the largest rivers, the Columbia River, where I’ll cross at the Bridge of the Gods.

10:29 AM

Smoke from the Whisky Creek wildfire is drifting through the mountains on this side. This fire, which broke out on July 27, is still spreading.

10:52 AM

In the distance I can already see the Columbia River. It’s going to be a long way down.

1:01 PM

1:31 PM

2:17 PM

Wow, you think you’ll just cruise down those 15 km, but it turns out to be quite tough. One and a half miles is 2.4 km, so that should take about 35 minutes. Well, it feels like hours! 😡

I keep running into more and more people who also stayed at the hostel in Stevens Pass. Strange—did they skip sections? 🤔

2:49 PM

Finally, the Bridge of the Gods! 🎉🙏 An emotional milestone reached. I’ve crossed the state of Washington and am now at the beginning of a new adventure in Oregon.

The “Bridge of the Gods” is an ancient legend of the Indigenous peoples of the Columbia River Gorge, including the Klickitat and the Wasco. According to the legend, the gods built a great stone bridge across the Columbia River so people and animals could cross easily. This bridge was later destroyed during a conflict between the gods, causing earthquakes and floods that reshaped the region’s natural features. The remnants of this bridge are said to form today’s Cascade Locks and the large rock formations in the river.

I walk alone across the massive bridge while cars speed past right next to me, though thankfully they are considerate. A bit awestruck, but also lonely, I look down through the bridge’s grating. It’s deep. You can feel this massive structure sway and vibrate.

2:52 PM

A paddle steamer comes sailing by and I stop to watch. Suddenly people start cheering and waving at me, and just like that the loneliness disappears. I wave back cheerfully and make a bow to show my gratitude. Thank you all for the support 🙏; I’m not alone.

3:47 PM

I head straight for the first terrace I see and order a smoked salmon salad. First I want a proper meal before going to find my room.

The motel gives me a nice discount because I’m a hiker, and I’m also allowed to use the washing machine. I immediately stuff it completely full, then hop in the shower. How wonderful it is to finally shower again after 10 days—but even better is that I can shower without pain. 🙏

Total: 33.64 km in 9 hours 20 minutes
1,015 m ascent, 1,384 m descent