Crater Lake Reveals Itself

8:42 AM

Got up at 5:30 AM. Took a nice shower first, then walked to a café for breakfast. Even there they had thought of me: a cardboard sign was ready in case I needed to hitchhike to the trailhead. Luckily that wasn’t necessary, because I get picked up at 7:45.

First, another hiker is picked up who’s heading northbound (NOBO). He doesn’t want to miss any sections of the PCT, but the area where I got off is completely closed. Still, he wants to try and walk parallel to the trail. People try to talk him out of it, because the moment he reaches a checkpoint, he’ll definitely be sent back—there are at least two checkpoints. He wants to bushwhack around them. Well, good luck. Calling in a helicopter costs at least 20k. Why are you so determined to walk every single meter? 🤔

9:06 AM

I’m dropped off a few hundred meters farther at the trailhead on the other side. The road is closed beyond that point, so the driver can’t take me any further. The area I’m entering now has only been reopened today.

On blind faith.

9:28 AM

Phew, it’s cold—so cold that I put on my down jacket. Too bad I don’t have gloves; now I have to walk with my hands in my pockets.

The driver warned me that the thunderstorm brought snow at 7,000 feet. I can’t convert that right now and I also don’t know the elevations of the alternate route. So once again: on blind faith.

12:36 PM

I reach the junction for the alternate route but don’t see any closures toward the PCT. It’s very tempting to just continue on, but I decide to stay firm and take the alternate route. We’re doing the Rim Trail.

1:38 PM

🤔 It’s a climb up to 2,100 meters. Hopefully that goes well, because I can already see the clouds gathering again.

1:54 PM

And once you’re at the top, you’re looking out over a massive crater lake.

But the wind is harsh and cuts into your face.

2:04 PM

It’s beautiful, but stopping isn’t an option—it’s far too cold for that.

+2

2:13 PM

Oh damn, I have to go up to 2,400 meters, and yes, I can indeed see fresh snow there.

2:34 PM

I hate snow: it slows you down, it’s slippery, cold, and icy. You have to pay extreme attention, and with holes in your shoes it’s absolutely no fun at all.

2:57 PM

But however you look at it, once you reach the top and have a clear view over the crater lake, the clouds are gone and it’s something special to be able to look out over the lake.

+4

3:21 PM

3:31 PM

I walk around half of the crater lake, and that section seems to take forever.

4:07 PM

A particularly curious bird is perched on top of the information sign.

Along the trail there’s a little souvenir shop. There are lots of big American cars parked, and many people are taking photos of the lake. There’s also a restaurant—well, a counter where you can order a sandwich and tea—but there are no chairs to sit on. So that means eating in the cold and trying to drink something warm.

6:58 PM

It’s a descent to Mazama Village, where there’s a large campground and a special area for PCT hikers. There’s a cooler with beer and chips, and because I’m too tired to cook, tonight it’s chips and beer 🤣.

I wrap myself up well and crawl into my sleeping bag. It’s going to be 2 degrees, so I’m not getting out again.

Total: 37.45 km in 9:58 hours · 904 m up · 925 m down