Back in My Element

7:07 AM

I was already awake at 5:00. Did a bit of work — that’s 2:00 PM Dutch time. After that I slowly started packing. There’s a bus to Mazama at 7:21, so I had plenty of time.

I put my freeze-dried meals into the hiker box — others will probably be much happier with them.

I walked to the sports field where the bus stop was supposed to be and, of course, arrived way too early. I stuck out my thumb and immediately got a ride to Mazama. Once again, very grateful. The woman who picked me up works for the government and was heading into the mountains for a quick hike before work.

In Mazama I ate a cinnamon roll at what’s supposedly the best bakery on the PCT, but it was so big I really couldn’t finish it. I didn’t think it was that great — maybe Dutch bakeries have higher standards 🤔.

There was another hiker there, Joe, trail name Lock, already heading back. A very American type, loudly announcing to everyone that he hikes the PCT.

8:15 AM

So, now I needed to get to Harts Pass. How do you do that when this is just a back road? I spot a car with a canoe on top, fully loaded. The man walks over, so I ask if he happens to be going toward Harts Pass.

“Yes and no,” he says, “but maybe you should talk to my wife.” She was supposed to start the PCT today as well, but after a bad night caused by teenagers at a campground, they postponed their start until tomorrow.

We get talking, and meanwhile they try to create a seat for me. The bench is loose, but with my backpack on my knees I just manage to squeeze in for the 30 km ride to Harts Pass. Bouncing along the road, we talk. They both served in the military in Iraq and were stationed in Germany (Stuttgart). Now they no longer have to work, and the key thing is that almost everything is free: no health insurance costs, no camping fees. Not bad 🤐.

Michelle will start at Harts Pass tomorrow, so I’ll definitely run into her again on my way back 👋.

9:21 AM

Yep, I’m on the PCT. There’s a ranger who stamps my permit. I sign the logbook and receive my PCT tag — a plastic card to hang on my backpack.

9:24 AM

The first steps on the PCT in the opposite direction begin: a second attempt to reach the Canadian border. It feels strange, because in four days I’ll be walking here again, but heading south.

The forest smells sweet, there are thousands of mosquitoes, and if I stand still, there won’t be much left of me.

10:11 AM

There’s not much to say — the photos speak for themselves. I’m back in my element.

11:57 AM

And there it is again: the sign marking entry into the wilderness, but now on the other side of the mountain range. Two weeks ago there was still snow here, and now everything is in bloom.

14:38 PM

There are sad moments too. An entire forest wiped out by a massive wildfire 20 years ago. Because the government was cutting costs, firefighting was considered too expensive. Pretty heartbreaking to hear that from local residents.

15:16 PM

Holman Pass — this is where I would have ended up if I’d taken the Devil’s Loop Trail, but I wanted the water taxi back and didn’t want to tackle another difficult trail.

The mosquitoes are terrible and I’m being eaten alive. In the next town I’ll try to buy a pair of bug pants and a jerrycan of DEET.

Honestly, appearance-wise I’m already starting to resemble a black fly myself 🪰.

Late Afternoon / Early Evening
I’ve reached my physical limit again. I’m crawling uphill step by step, and as soon as I spot the campsite I immediately pitch my tent so I can lie down and nap without the mosquitoes tormenting me.

Distance:
25.74 km in 7:25 hours
849 m up, 841 m down

Evening
I wake up around 7:00 PM. Two more tents have appeared. I make a big mug of tea and force myself to eat. Dirty and dusty, I crawl into my silk liner. Water is a kilometer away, and that’s just not happening anymore tonight.

I’m done for now and need more sleep.
Good night — for what was still a beautiful day.