A Day of Detours

5:53 AM

Time to head out.

I talk to more and more people who confirm that the section between Harts Pass and Rainy Pass is closed due to a wildfire.

The people I’m meeting now are hiking toward the border to finish their PCT journey. Most of them had to stop in 2022 because this area was closed back then.

7:32 AM

I usually walk for about an hour first and then look for a nice spot to have breakfast. The breakfast wouldn’t earn a star, but the views more than make up for it. What’s on the menu? 🤔😬 Wraps with Pecorino cheese and a large mug of hot tea.

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10:35 AM

I meet more and more people who, because of a fire closure in 2022, were unable to reach the terminus. To properly close their journey, they’re walking this stretch now.

10:59 AM

I run into Lady Dundoe and Amanda. “Lady Dundoe” is her trail name, given during her Appalachian Trail thru-hike — still high on my own wish list. She’s hiking the PCT together with her niece.

They’re birdwatching, but I’ve already forgotten the name of the bird. It looks like an overinflated female pheasant 🤣 — but it’s not.

12:04 PM

At Harts Pass I meet a PCT ranger handing out flyers, stickers, and information about the trail. He explains the route to hikers and briefs everyone on the fire closure between Harts Pass and Rainy Pass — exactly the section I’m supposed to hike now.

I’m being eaten alive by mosquitoes, wasps, and hornets. Even though I put on lots of extra clothing, the hornets sting straight through my pants. I sit on a tree stump under the ranger’s tent, trying to stay in the shade. It’s brutally hot 🥵.

Over the radio I hear firefighters talking to each other — there’s a new fire near the Canadian border 😬. Another ranger joins in to listen, but for now there’s no need to close the trailhead.

Lady Dundoe and Amanda arrive as well. Dundoe is one of those Americans who immediately takes charge and stays relentlessly upbeat — before I know it, she’s arranged a ride to Mazama.

13:09 PM

Mark is doing a drive with his mother. Her husband, Davit — Mark’s father — passed away this January. They’re making this trip in his memory, and his mother breaks down in tears.

Space is made in the car, and Dundoe, Amanda, and I sit in the back. Everyone starts sharing stories; it clearly helps her.

Because it’s unclear how the fire situation will develop, we decide to continue toward Rainy Pass, with a short stop because I want to buy some fruit. Mark drives quickly down the mountain pass (a narrow back road). You can smell the tires and brake pads — if you lose traction, you’d drop hundreds of meters.

Safely arrived in Mazama, I dive into the store for apples, pie, and cookies. This is my chance to eat some normal food, but time is short — we want to keep moving.

14:12 PM

Mark’s mother remembers a viewpoint we passed earlier by car. Since we’re not in a rush, Mark turns around and we all head up to the viewpoint.

It’s a place her husband Davit was still able to reach on his own in a wheelchair.

The view is sublime — overlooking the entire valley and Highway 20 winding its way up the mountain pass. Everyone takes photos, and we pose together for a group picture to remember this unexpectedly warm day.

14:55 PM

We’re dropped off and once again find ourselves standing in a parking lot, thinking about how to continue the route.

Dundoe and Amanda choose the first campsite. I want to push on a bit farther so I can stay in Stehekin tomorrow and wash everything — I smell awful and look the part too.

We say goodbye, but we’ll probably see each other again in Stehekin. There are only three houses there, and you can only reach it by plane.

The trail to the right is closed, so we head left. Onward to Stehekin.

Temperature: 37 °C

18:01 PM

I meet a NOBO hiker and say, “Wow, you did that fast 🙏.” He’s frustrated by the fire closure — after so many miles, he can’t officially complete the route.

I filter water, and at this campsite you can store your food in a bear locker. What a luxury — no need to hang your food for once.